only 10 days into our journey and i still feel a little overwhelmed... by the travel logistics, by the safe-guarding/trusting of others, by the technological limitations (like no phone, no computer, no time online & plenty of internet cafe security restrictions uploading photos, etc)... and, most of all, by the "how to" record all the sights, sounds and smells of everything here... as an outsider, all i can do is observe and describe what i see on the surface, what i learn from others here (native and foreign), and what we are doing with our time. we don't have time to become socio-cultural experts everywhere we go, but i so desperately want to paint a mental picture of these places... i know my sister has done well to describe our comings and goings, so i don't want to have to repeat everything... i just hope i can fill in some of the blanks here.
soweto: "south western townships" of joburg, a.k.a., the area of town to where the Afrikaner gov't forced the black South Africans to move (into neighborhoods according to their native tribes) outside legally-designated white areas... watch Amandla! or read/watch The Power of One to get a small idea of what took place during apartheid.
highlights of our visit there: visiting with Mutodi's family, seeing where Nelson Mandela used to live, stopping in for a few beers at Georgie's (a local "shebeen" or unlicensed bar in the back of someone's house in Zone 1 of the Meadowlands), and hearing the choir practice & touring the Regina Mundi Church (center of the revolution against apartheid), where there are still bullet holes in the windows as well as a marble alter broken by the butt of police officer's rifle... the energy of this place was a little intense--positive but powerful. you could really feel it.
from joburg, we took a Greyhound bus east through the south african border to the mozambique border. thankfully greeted by our American friend Lisa and her co-worker, we got a ride to Maputo from there. for our first border crossing of the trip, it was a little chaotic (long lines out the door, everyone wanting to get through quickly, bustling immigration officers, local guys illegally trying to make some money by helping to expedite the immigration process for foreigners, kids selling cold beverages outside, customs agents looking through everything, buses with trailers, trucks, mini-buses (or "chapas") loaded with luggage, crazy traffic and seemingly little order to everything), but it went relatively smooth--thanks to our Greyhound "hostess" who guided us through it and told us exactly what to do... it was a little stressful (especially when we handed over our passports and I wasn't sure when/if we'd get them back), but we made it.
now in mozambique, it's been nice to use & practice my portuguese... especially for Heather's sake. on tuesday and wednesday, we hung out at a local church outreach for street boys (called Masana, or Light), where Heather facilitated some games like circle dodge ball, "follow the leader" and a blind-folded "trust walk." it was fun but it really challenged my perspectives around our trip again... i'll have to think about how to capture that all later, but my time online is about to run out.
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